What is it that distinguishes a tailor-made suit? In the second part of the article series on A.W. Bauer & Co. we have looked closely at the craftsmanship behind Mr tailor’s Studio.
Frederik Andersen keeps right on cutting out the parts into a Covert Coat.The customer has asked for pointy lapels, which led to a minor discussion among the tailors at Bauer. Traditionally, this is a model that has straight shots and there is some disagreement about whether or not the pointy kind fit. In the end, however, it is always the customer’s desire. Frederik shows a special cut of the basic template to get extra form over the chest;Lind valls average, taken from a now-defunct tailoring.
-I think we’re alone in using this technology. Under normal circumstances, is the template for the chestpiece divided in two parts.This technique provides much better fit around the chest which is important to go with the outer coat should be able to shape itself after the jacket under, says Frederik.
To in text form to try to explain a craft that will take several years to learn is an almost impossible task. It sits in the skräddarens head, heart and hands. But it is possible to theoretically explain how the process behind a tailored suit looks like. When the customer in consultation with the tailor chosen fabric and model place measureing. This creates an individual pattern in paper which is then placed on the fabric where the various parts kritas and later cut out. Then sys themselves bröstuppskäret and horsehair as pikerats stuck in vattulin to be crammed stuck in the jacket’s front.Kraglärft pikeras together with under collar to give the collar support and shape. Then be crammed the jacket and face different parts together for a first test on the customer. Here appear shiny balance carefully and tailor marks any adjustments with chalk.
After the first test is the jacket’s various parts apart and adjustments are made on the affected parts. Then sys droop, lining and pockets finished and the suit to be crammed into a andraprovning where the tailor carefully eye silhouette, and details like sleeve length. The third and final test, also called test, sewn suit ready. Sides and shoulders pressed and sewn together. Collar sewn and be tightened through brejdeln, a strip that runs along with the battle. The sleeves are completed. Finally avpressas the entire suit. Sometimes, however, it may require additional testing to achieve the desired results.
– We try to keep a delivery time of 6-8 weeks, but sometimes it’s hard. It is easy to believe that it’s faster when you as a customer well sewn up a costume with us previously and already have all the dimensions. But there are so many different factors that affect the result, like how the fabric will behave and, not least, which model the customer has chosen, which means we always prefer to have at least three tests, says Frederik.
What is it that distinguishes a tailor-made suit? A word Frederik and his colleague Martin E. Jumoke talk warmly about is the balance. The jacket’s construction is shaped using traditional methods with horsehair and vattulin as handpikeras and pressed to get the right shape. It gives the garment right suppleness and freedom of movement.
-Although there are manufacturers of clothing and size sewn that have pikerade spacer so it is important to remember that these are not tailored to the wearer as with custom designed. It is an enormous job to sew and press the inserts after the wearer’s body, which is what it takes to create an absolutely perfect fit.
Like all crafts is a big part of the challenge in being able to handle different fabrics and materials. In the past, the tailors had to buy larger quantities from Mills to keep its own inventory of fabrics. Today, the vast majority of mills a solid order which increases the choice of the customer. And the range of fabrics of Bauer is impressive. There is everything from rugged hand woven Tweed fabrics, fabrics for British super lightweight kashmir from Loro Piana.
-There are many who like to brag about the fabrics in their costumes.For me, it is not possible to say that the fabric would be finer than the others without choice of fabric is about uses and how the garment is constructed. Many people forget that with custom designed so working thru the fabric more than on a konfektionssydd suit, which makes the fabric when the costume is often underlay a another character with regard to how it is perceived in the tygbounchen. Many of the all for fine-scale fabrics are therefore often better clothing to look good right on the hanger, says Frederik.
Do you experience to the customer by tailor made have changed since you started in the profession?
I find myself on my ten here at Bauer be able to see that more kostymbärare dare to take out the turns a little more. For example, we do many halvfodrade costumes and it’s not just dark blue or gray. In the past, the majority of the customers that come here very keen to dress properly.
It enters a customer to pick up his suit, washed and a few minor adjustments, a lifetime service that is included with your purchase of a suit at Bauer. Tailor Börje M points out jokingly that it starts getting a bit worn at the front edge.
-But I have not had it for very long, “says the customer.
-In 1994, it is in the inner lining. Börje responds with a smile, it is time to order a new one.
To allow sewing up a suit of Bauer undoubtedly calls for some other perspectives than those we are constantly fed by the fashion world. It may seem completely insane to pay from 30,000 dollars for a two-piece suit.But for anyone who ever visited A.W. Bauer & co. and seen the craft actually is behind a suit feels the price is anything but unreasonable.
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