Focus on: In september 2007, Manolo if new Oscar Jacobson. Then, the plan was to wipe out gubbstämpeln and give the brand more clout. With new owners and a whole new direction appears to mark now just over two years later to make the same journey.
-This time, we have been very consistent. Change happens from the ground up with everything from a new trouser and kavajsilhuett to new proprietary fabrics, says Roger Tjernberg ceo of Oscar Jacobson.
Our collection, which at the time of writing, is on the way out to the shops is a first result of the brand’s process of change. The fall will mean even greater changes, including a completely new kavajkonstruktion, partnership with Loro Piana and a further collection.
-In terms of our position is that no dramatic changes. We continue to be a company with a focus on clothing. Stylistically, it happens quite a lot, however, where we have strengthened our basic collection and added new parts to be as comprehensive as possible. For next autumn, we introduce a new concept, which we call the Sartorial Leisure where we brought in some workwear-influences with washed fabrics and completely non-structured jackets. Then, we have created an exclusive Loro Piana during collection, together with, where we used a full canvas construction, “says Roger.
The biggest overall change is in the jacket and pants silhouette. For the pants, the brand has embraced a leaner cuts with a slightly lower waist.The jacket has received a hefty change with narrower sleeves and a slightly shorter silhouette, but above all a new axis:
-To create a softer shoulder line has been a very important part for us.We felt that the built and relatively immobile shoulder that has long dominated the fashion picture began to feel very out of date. We have therefore looked much at the Neapolitan skrädderierna which is known for its soft silhouette. It’s a very difficult detail to get to because it requires greater precision, using a softer lining to shape the shoulder.The advantage is that the shoulder will be much more mobile and lighter while the more athletic, “says Roger.
Is it possible to get to a soft shoulder without sewing by hand?
-What I think is exciting is that we actually manage to create a natural feel for a large scale production. For us it is important that the quality level which is impossible to get with hand-sewn clothing. For better or worse, of course, the feeling never gets real same.
Today sys all your clothes in Lithuania. What does the country of manufacture of the finished product?
-I have been through and seen how the production moved from Sweden to Finland, Portugal, Eastern Europe and now Asia. The truth is that the quality has become much better, while the price is relatively unchanged.The producers adamantly stuck to producing in the end, Sweden was forced to simplify their garments to the point that they became meaningless and lost their soul. At present, we are very satisfied with the quality of our factory and also Lithuania is very short distance to the important is important for us to be able to have an overview of the production.
Overcoat in cashmere fabric from Loro Piana. A turtleneck in 100% cashmere is also made of the reputed wool and fabric supplier.
Roger speaks warmly about the company’s heritage and unique knowledge.But is there really any substance in it when clothing industry disappeared over 30 years ago?
-In the 60 ‘s was actually Sweden at the forefront when it came to clothing and especially the modern technique of fixed garment. We had a reputation for making great looking and responsive garments. Our pattern makers was world famous. I remember when I worked at the Tiger with a pattern designer named Leif Menfors. He had pure rockstjärnestatusen when he went around to manufacturers in Europe.Remember we visited Chester Barrie and he was picked up in a Rolls Royce. Much of this knowledge is actually left in the Oscar Jacobson today. We have employees that know exactly how a spacer, a buttonhole or evidence are behaving and what it takes to get all the details together.There is a culture and enormous knowledge of Oscar Jacobson which makes the work rewarding. You just have to do something meaningful with it.
Design work by Oscar Jacobsson at this time with four types of structures;a fixed where breast party pikeras by hand, half a canvas with fluid inserts for punches and breast party, a full canvas and an unlined design without shimming. Prices range from 3000 to approximately 8000 kr for a Blazer.
-90% of our sales are fixed garment and we are constantly working to improve this technology. A lot has happened with the inserts that today is very pliable and durable. Then it’s fun to be able to offer half and full canvas for some more informed customers. The soft design is brand new for this year and something we believe strongly in. But it is also a technique that requires a lot of manufacturers and, not least, mönsterkonstruktören. The fit must be right from the beginning.
What is it that makes you go for the unlined style?
-This is where we look to men’s fashion is moving. It’s no secret that we inspired a lot of Italian brands like Boglioli and Brunello Cucinelli, who changed fashion image with its natural design language. It involves a pretty big contrast to brands like Dior and Gucci that dominated for a few years ago. But we notice that today’s customers want everything from a classic business suit for the Office into an unlined manchesterkavaj to go and watch football.
With full canvas collection is approaching you price wise, many of the Italian brands. What are the arguments for selecting Oscar Jacobson in front, for example, Corneliani or Caruso?
-We differ slightly from many of the Italian manufacturers by having a slightly more Scandinavian fit and silhouette. Then we have a broader range in terms of price, especially in terms of our base line. At the same time, I think we have a very high level of detail. For example, vändsys all the pants to get a final look. All jackets have pikerade breasts for a better adherence, plus we use exclusively heavy feed solution and require more fabric. Now when we got to a better fit, it is clearly a competitive brand.There are great Italian manufacturer, but which also tend to be somewhat higher prices.
For the upcoming fall launches mark a collaboration with fabric supplier Loro Piana. Brands have jointly developed unique fabrics for a smaller collection of suits, jackets and sweaters, topcoats -. Among other things, a fabric quality called for Cashmere Wish consisting of 85% cashmere and 15% super 170-wool. Clothing part uses full canvas-design and the price is from approximately 8000 for a costume.
The fabrics have been an important part of the change where Oscar Jacobson to a much higher extent from previously chosen to develop their own fabrics. In autumn collection is 70% of the fabrics specially developed for the brand.
-This has been important to give the brand a uniqueness. The advantage is that we can färgkoordinera the collection in a better way. We want to have a certain tone of beige throughout the entire collection, we can get it, which is important to be able to present the clothes in the shop. At the same time, we have said that we will absolutely not make some buffoon fabrics but we want to keep it classic. We have checked a lot of the older tygarkiv and from there developed the classic designs with a modern twist. In addition, we work mainly with the Italian Mills who has a great sense of color and lightness of the fabrics.
In addition to suits and blazers made up Oscar Jacobson’s range even of shirts, sweaters, neckties, scarves and handkerchiefs. In autumn launched a smaller väskkollektion.
-This will not be our main job, but it is important today to be able to present an overall look. I think time with lifestyle brands where customers buying everything from top to from one and the same brand is past. Today’s customers want to create a style. We see this more as a way to present the collection as a whole, then the customer may choose the parts he likes.
Our collection has a good response and sales increased by 16% from the previous year. At the time of writing, going on sale in the fall. An important part of the work is to find new outlets for the brand, which Roger thinks are based in a single thing.
-In the end, it’s all about producing really good clothes. We can never force at a store to sell our clothes. Now, however, we feel that we have a very competitive collection which is of interest to a broad audience, “says Roger.