New habits, new fabrics. Something that really has not gone Mills unconcerned by. Recent seasons have the major fabric manufacturers competing to see who can create the easiest, least-wrinkled and coolest kostymtyget.
We are really demands on our costumes. They are going to wear from nine to five in a heated premises without the wearer gets sweaty. They shall retain the shape and luster after all abrasive. Ideally, they also go to pack in your suitcase without getting wrinkled. It increases demands on the design itself, but of course the fabric. Fortunately, it appears that mills obsessed with the idea of offering us as functional fabrics as possible.
What is it that distinguishes a performance fabric? Basically this involves three parts; yarns, weaving technique and finishieringen. The main Mills is extremely selective with whom garner they use. For natural fabrics, often points out that feature Merino with its thin and durable fibers constitute a good basis for the fabric. For the summer season are mixed frequently merinoullgarnerna with silk to reduce the weight of the fabric, but also to reduce the propensity to wrinkle. For more luxurious fabrics are not used seldom mohair that comes from Angorageten. The quality is very similar to wool and sidenkombinationer with a nice sheen and wrinkle-free properties.
Weaving technology and the finishieringen primarily affects the movement of the fabric might, but also the sensitivity against stains and sunlight. For example, Zegna spring developed fabric Cool Effect (top picture) that reflect 80% of the sunlight away from the body, which is largely a result of finishiering. Below are some other interesting examples.
Dormeuil Dry twist, as the name suggests is used dubbeltvinnande ullgarner which gives a tight and at the same time very light fabric that keeps the shape.
Ultra luxurious fabric Phantom from Dormeuil mixes Camdeboo mohair with cashmere, which gives a weight of only 230gram per square metre.
Loro Piana has been at the forefront of many fabric innovations like The Wave and Wish. The fabric above shows their summer version of the classic Tasmanian.
Merino and sidenmix from Vitale Barberis Conica.
Wool fibres ‘ thickness is measured in microns (microns). Merino Wool is often divided into different quality categories as medium (19.6-22.9 micron), fine (18.6-19.5 micron) and superfine (15-18.5 micron). The fibers of the fabric above from Carlo Barbera 14.5 meters micron, which qualify for the category of ultrafine merino wool.